Nizamuddin basti - the best little neighborhood in Delhi!

One really great thing, among all the things that can make you seriously crazy, about Delhi is the amazing variety of events going on every day - and they're almost all free!   

One such event was the recent Jashn e Kushrau festival in honor of the kalaam (poetry) of Amir Khusrau a 13th Century Sufi. This 2-week long festival featured live qawwals, lectures, readings, and heritage walks through Nizamuddin.

I followed one of the walks led by young men from the neighborhood who have volunteered to guide people through the place they've grown up in. There is a lot of work going on to revitalize the neighborhood, restore ancient sites while creating opportunities for those who live there and instauring a sense of pride in their home. It's really great to see, especially in Delhi where one can easily get the impression that nobody cares about anything!

I've been through Nizamuddin a couple of times, but it was great to discover more hidden lanes and alleys. It's amazing what's tucked in this place, Medieval tombs are scattered all over the place, shrines and even a surprisingly huge, old baoli or step well!

The crowded lanes are filled with shops where craftsmen sell everything from attar (perfume oils) to mosquito net tents and tooth cleaning sticks. The smells of jasmine perfume, grilling kebabs, garbage and incense mingle to create an undescribable, often overpowering, aroma.