Showing posts with label Chandni Chowk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chandni Chowk. Show all posts

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Chandni Chowk in Photos

Some more photos from our walk through Chandni Chowk in April.

Betel leaves for paan
Costco-sized jars of pickle

busily stringing flowers on garlands
Fresh corn and  chickpeas, I got myself some
fresh chickpeas they're delicious!
namkeen - fried, crispy snacks in all shapes and sizes!
We didn't eat here...
These bizarre looking things are basically soy protein
wrapped around a stick. Tofu popsicles
Didn't try these either...

They take their kite flying very seriously
in these parts!
washing up, street style

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Eating in Chandni Chowk part 2

After the stuffed naan we made our way back towards the Fatehpuri mosque to get the best lassi I have ever had. I've been to the Amritsari lassiwallah before so I knew exactly which one I wanted ... mango. Thick, creamy, tangy sweetness with a layer of malai on top. Creamy goodness in a glass!


papri chaat, not the most appetizing
dish in the world
From there we took a long stroll on a dusty street lined with vendors of every kind of metal household kitchen utensil imaginable and some kitewallahs. We eventually ended up in front of Ashok Chaat Bhandar. We lined up for "Delhi's Best" golgappas, papri chaat and dahi bhalla. I have to say I'm not the biggest fan of Delhi-style chaat, it's very goopy. I've had it many times now and it just doesn't do it for me. The golgappas were OK but I've since had the most amazing pani puris in Bombay and will leave my discussion of them for a later post.

Watch out for splinters!
Just like a sorbet or granite is served between courses, our next stop was for ice cream where we finally found a place to sit down in the kulfiwallah's shop. Mango was the group favorite and the masala sprinkled on top was something tasty I've never tried before. The pomegranate sorbet-style kulfi was my favorite and was really refreshing after 3 hours walking in 100 degree heat in the dusty lanes of Chandni Chowk. Check out the spoons - slats of wood!

By this time we were too bloated to waddle to the next stop so we loaded our lazy selves onto bicycle rickshaws and paid the poor guy about a dollar to pedal us there. En route we had a flower fight, throwing marigolds at each other and showering people on the streets with petals as we passed by. You won't get that on anyone else's tour!!
3 people plus the driver per bike
what a load!
We unloaded ourselves in Kinari Bazaar which is the shiny-ribbon and gaudy-trim market. One of the most famous food places of Delhi is near here - the Paranthe Wali Gali. Although not one of us was the least bit hungry by this point, there is no way you can say you've done a food walk in Chandni Chowk without stopping here so we did what any self-respecting food lover would do - try 5 different kinds of stuffed and fried paranthas! Karela parantha was my favorite and I was most surprised by the papad parantha.


Just at down the lane from the Paranthe Wali Gali is Delhi's Old and Famous Jalebiwala and that is where we called it a night. We tried some of these sweet sweet treats but since I don't think these are the best in town I'll save my jalebi post for later too!





Friday, May 27, 2011

Eating My Way Through Chandni Chowk part 1

What better way to get back into the swing of life in Delhi than to wander around Chandni Chowk trying some of the goodies on offer in those crowded, narrow, dirty lanes?

And definitely the best and most fun way is to go with Himanshu Verma of the Red Earth Project. www.redearthindia.com

This wasn't your typical tour through Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk - we walked, ate, talked, ate, had a flower fight on bicycle rickshaws, then ate some more!

We met up at the far end of Chandni Chowk near the Fatehpuri mosque and headed straight to the Khari Baoli, the largest spice market in Asia. You know you're in the neighborhood when you start sneezing from all the spices in the air! Anything and everything including a lot of unidentifiable things are available here, it's fascinating!
Saltwallah - black salt and pink Himalaya salt
along with the normal white variety!
Don't know what the stuff that looks like
clods of dirt is...
Phoolwallah with his
genda phool

Himanshu is passionate about flowers and is fighting to keep Delhi's idiotic government from closing down the neighborhood flower markets (check out his website for more info) so he took us on a quick detour up a narrow flight of steep stairs to a small flower market completely hidden away from the craziness on the street below.

I generally prefer that the chef's feet
are more than 5 inches away from
my food ...


By then we were getting hungry so we went for stuffed naan at Kake di Hatti. We got paneer and potato. They're cooked in a tandoor oven and as it was about 100 degrees out I felt sorry for the poor guy who sits on top of the tandoor cooking these things all day long! They were pretty good although I thought there was too much raw ginger and they could have used some more seasoning - the flavoring was kind of bland except for the ginger.


... then I noticed the guy grinding
the spices in a hole in the sidewalk










Stay tuned for the chaat, kulfi, paranthas and more in part 2

Monday, February 8, 2010

Exploring the lanes of Old Delhi, I'm definitely going back for more!

Once again sorry for the lapse in posting. We're in the final throes of kitchen and bathroom design. I'm happy to say that we're almost there (design-wise that is - we'll see how the conceptualization to realization phase goes...) and I'm getting excited about my new kitchen-to-be which I've only seen in 3D renderings so far.

I've been to Old Delhi before (in search of mango lassi when it was 42 celsius last year) but haven't ventured into the dark, narrow, winding lanes yet - basically for fear of getting lost on my own - so this walk with Delhi Heritage Walks was the perfect way for me to get a feel for the place with people who know their way around.

You can almost imagine yourself transported hundreds of years back in time if you can mentally photoshop out the electrical wires and motorcycles. The medievalesque feeling is heightened by the way the neighborhoods are divided up by different crafts or businesses and by the way the open drains along the alley make you want to look up to make sure some serving wench doesn't empty a bucket of slop on your head. Most of the shops were closed on Sunday which made it easier to get through but much less colorful.

Our tour started just outside the mosque where we passed the fireworks sellers area, then we walked through the bead quarter, the ribbon/edging quarter, the quarter where guys made folders and ended up in the Parathewali Gali where a few paratha makers will stuff almost anything into dough and fry it up for you.

Even though the beautifully carved entranceways and the lovely screened porches (where the ladies were permitted to watch life on the streets outside) are decrepit and dirty, it gives you an idea of what the havelis must have been like in their prime. Most havelis have been broken up into apartments and filled with shops, but we were able to see one that retained the basic form which is similar to buildings in Paris in that they're built around a courtyard.

We visited an old Jain temple too, but that deserves its own posting once I've done some research...

Old Delhi is a photographers paradise, I feel a little uncomfortable snapping pictures of random people on the street since I would not like strangers taking pictures of me like that but several others in the group (with much nicer cameras than mine) were shooting away so I just went with the flow. Here are a few random pictures I took.