Agra and one strike against corrupt cops

So we went to Agra to see the Taj Mahal for Valentine's Day (I know, I'm a bit behind on my postings). A romantic idea except that we got there too late to visit and they don't do night viewings anymore (too great a terrorism risk) so we went to our hotel and had a mediocre meal. We chose not to go to pay 25,000 Rs (yes, that's almost $5000) for the Valentine's dinner at the Amarvillas...

Rajiv had meetings on Monday so I went to the Taj Mahal with the driver (how fun). I've already seen it at daybreak, midnight under a full moon and in the afternoon but it's still as fabulous as ever and I don't think I'll ever tire of seeing it. This time I was able to visit the Red Fort which was also quite impressive.

But the real excitement took place as we were driving back through Agra to pick up Rajiv & Brahm Datt. We were stopped at an intersection minding our own business when the traffic cop signaled for us to pull over to the side - I knew where this was headed...

We did, he walked over and asked for the driver's license and the car's papers. He took them and walked off. The driver got out and went over to see what the problem was. He came back and sure enough the cop wanted 500 Rs for some pollution control sticker or something. I said to tell him I'll take the ticket (which was supposedly 1500 Rs) - there was no way I was going to pay a bribe. In the meantime the cop walked back up to the car and began getting really aggressive with the driver - opening the door and trying to physically yank him out and take the keys. The driver didn't get out and the cop walked away again. Since he still had our papers the driver got out and walked back up to the cop. He came back again after a few minutes and said that he'd lowered his price to 200 Rs. By this time I was getting really angry. I thought I'd pull a Rajiv so I got out of the car and walked up to the cop myself to call his bluff and make him to show me his ID so I could take down his info at least. I got up to him, poked him on the shoulder and said "you want money from me???". As soon as he saw me he gave me a slimy smile, handed me back the papers and said "chello Madame" or "go on Mam". I walked back to the car, gave the driver the papers and said I didn't pay anything; but in the meantime he had finally reached Rajiv on the phone who said not to move, they'd be right there in a rickshaw and he'd sort this guy out.

I knew things were about to heat up. Rajiv and Brahm Datt pulled up in an autorickshaw and hopped out. Brahm Datt and the driver went to fetch the cop (who had no idea what was in store for him) and I explained to Rajiv what had happened. I didn't understand much of what ensued as it was in Hindi, but basically the cop turned into a snivelling worm saying "sorry sir" and denying he asked for a bribe. Rajiv really pulled a Rajiv, grabbing the cop by his collar and shoving him up against the back of the car. By this time a crowd was gathering and 3 lanes of traffic had come to a standstill. The cop wouldn't show Rajiv his ID which only made him madder. A paddy wagon showed up sirens wailing, two other cops got out but if the bad cop thought he was saved he was wrong. Rajiv didn't back off, calling these two guys over to make a report on the bad cop. The reinforcements quickly turned tail and scuttled off without doing anything. I was afraid Rajiv was going to punch the guy, he was still shoving him around and yelling at him. Nobody in the crowd of at least 200 people moved a finger other than film the whole thing with their phones. Finally I got out of the car, Rajiv let the guy go and we took off.

At the very next intersection we were pulled over again...Rajiv jumped out of the car blood still boiling from the previous encounter. Three cops were there and he was instantly in their faces, yelling at them, asking what the problem was now. Whether the other cops had called ahead we can only just suspect, but these 3 quickly backed off and said to go on, but not after Rajiv came quite close to going ballistic again and calling a magistrate to report them too.

The last time we went to Agra we were hit up for a bribe by a traffic cop too.

At least that cop got the thrashing he deserved and that with hundreds of people to witness it. Maybe, hopefully, one of them will have the nerve to stand up for himself next time a cop tries to abuse his power and coerce a bribe. At least Rajiv has become a folk hero (my hero!) for standing up to a dirty cop!